How to spend 5 days in Lisbon.

Lisbon is the city on everyone’s lips right now – and it’s no wonder. From fascinating history to hip culture, delectable food to world-class wine, stunning views to beaches that demand to be basked on, this city has it all. Here’s how to spend five days in the Portuguese capital.

Day 1 – Old Town vistas

There’s nothing like admiring a new city from a height for getting your bearings. To kick off your trip head to Miradouro da Senhora do Monte, a serene viewing spot with incredible 210-degree views over Lisbon, to kick back and contemplate your (albeit temporary) new home. 

Next, lunch is in order. Stroll 20 minutes – through the Jardim da Cerca da Graça and past the Castelo de São Jorge for a longer but more scenic route – to O Velho Eurico. This snug eatery serving classic regional dishes offers the ideal introduction to Portuguese cuisine. 

From there it’s a short walk to Alfama, Lisbon’s oldest neighbourhood. This hilly warren of cobbled lanes and alleys (warning: this is a flat-shoe city if you value your ankles) is the perfect place to spend an afternoon wafting around and absorbing the atmosphere.

Come evening, stroll to hip Lisbon kitchen Damas in neighbouring Graça. Based in a former industrial bakery, its low-key aesthetic hints at its innovative but unpretentious culinary offering. ‘Surprise’ daily menus are handwritten on the tiled wall and after-dinner entertainment comes in the form of thoughtful music programming.

Day 2 – Culture ft. the beach 

It’s culture time. Occupying a former power station on the riverfront in Lisbon’s historic Belém district, MAAT (Museum of Art, Architecture and Technology) is home to thought-provoking permanent and temporary exhibitions. Post-perusal, retreat to its café to tuck in to some lunch and admire the rather lovely views. 

If you’re in need of some down-time, drive or Uber 20 minutes across the water and spend the afternoon basking on the Costa da Caparica. This seemingly endless stretch of dune-backed sand comprises several different beaches: opt for the lively Caparica town beach, the more laid-back Praia da Morena, or discover the Lagoa de Albufeira – a picturesque lagoon surrounded by pine forests that opens on to golden sands. 

Once you’re suitably sunned, it’s time to think about dinner. Head back in the direction you came to Canalha, where chef João Rodrigues creates Portuguese fare with a Spanish twist. Expect a typical Lisbon restaurant with marble counters, comfy chairs and a view of the kitchen. Just make sure you book ahead (weeks, not hours) to guarantee a table.

Day 3 – Fairytale-like Sintra 

It’s worth tearing yourself away from the city to visit Sintra for the day. High up in the mountains and home to whimsical castles – including the colourful Pena Palace – enchanting gardens and a magical mediaeval town, this municipality is one of the most beautiful places in Portugal. Parking in Sintra isn’t easy, so we’d recommend catching the train from Rossio Station (10 minutes via the metro from Locke de Santa Joana) and travelling between sights by bus. 

For lunch, Romaria de Baco is a local favourite. Hidden on a side street near the Palácio Nacional de Sintra, this quaint eatery offers traditional Portuguese food with a modern twist. For something more upmarket, Incomúm near the train station serves creative Mediterranean fusion dishes in elegant surroundings. 

Back in Lisbon for the evening, visit Tasca do Chico for an authentic – and intimate – Portuguese musical experience. Watch well-known fado singers perform on weekends, or go on Mondays and Wednesdays when it’s all about the locals and amateurs (our favourite). You’ll have to arrive early (from 7pm) to get a seat for the show starting at 9pm, but the scrumptious menu of small plates will keep you going until then. 

Day 4 – First history, then custard

It’s back to exploring Lisbon, specifically Calouste Gulbenkian Museum. Nestled in the north of the Gulbenkian Garden, the museum was designed to accommodate Calouste Sarkis Gulbenkian’s vast array of paintings, sculptures, and decorative arts. Considered one of the most important private collections in the world, it encompasses 5,000 years of history – from Ancient Egypt to Art Nouveau. (Top tip: the guided tour every Monday at 10.30am is well worth doing.) 

On to matters of the stomach, and the chances are there’s at least one piece of Portuguese patisserie culture you’ve been exposed to back home: pastél de nata. Trust us: Lisboetas do it better – just look up your nearest  Manteigaria, a literal factory of the tasty little morsels. We’re not saying pastry and custard is always a legitimate lunch option, but when in Portugal…  

For dinner, walk 25 minutes through the Moorish Quarter – via the photogenic Praça Martim Moniz – to Cervejaria Ramiro, a charmingly retro, no-frills beer-drinking establishment that also happens to serve arguably the best seafood in Lisbon. Feast on peppered clams, garlicky grilled prawns and succulent rock lobster, washed down with frosty glasses of beer or vinho verde. 

Day 5 – Gritty but gorgeous Setúbal

For another day out of the city, drive or catch a train to Setúbal. Characterful and authentic, this relatively undiscovered city on the River Sado contains a charming old town with an impressive fort and some of Portugal’s best seafood, yet evades huge crowds of tourists. 

Spend the morning meandering around the town – from the buzzing Mercado do Livramento, to the breathtaking views from the Forte de São Filipe. Or join a dolphin watching tour to see the 35-strong pod of bottlenose dolphins who call the Sado Estuary home. 

For lunch, try local delicacy Choco Frito (fried cuttlefish), chased with a glass of Moscatel Roxo (a local rich, sweet wine). Then, in the afternoon, explore Parque Natural da Arrábida – home to some of the most beautiful beaches in Portugal, with soaring limestone cliffs offering breathtaking vistas of the Sado Estuary and Tróia Peninsula. 

Back in Lisbon for your final night, bag a table at Locke de Santa Joana’s in-house restaurant, Santa Marta, for vibrant mouthfuls of mediterranean-inspired flavours. Then nip downstairs to late-night DJ and cocktail bar Spiritland for post-dinner drinks (and dancing? Why not!).